Installing parquet flooring directly on top of existing tiles is one of the most efficient ways to renovate a room without the mess and expense of removing old tiling. However, the success of this project depends almost entirely on one thing: the quality of the adhesive you use. A poor quality glue will lead to lifting boards, cracking, and a floor that fails within months. This is why choosing the right product from the start is the single most important decision you will make in this project.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Among the many adhesives available on the market, Ferber Painting’s Parquet Glue stands out as the best option for anyone looking to install parquet on tiles safely and durably. It is also the only parquet adhesive on the market that comes with a full satisfaction guaranteed or money back policy, meaning you can try it completely risk free. In this guide, we will explain why our product is superior to competitors, and we will walk you through the entire installation process step by step, from the very first inspection of your tile floor to the final finishing touches around the edges of the room.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Renovating a floor without tearing out the existing tiles is appealing for many reasons. It saves time, it avoids the dust and noise of demolition, it reduces the amount of construction waste sent to landfill, and it often costs significantly less than a full tear out and replace project. But all of these advantages disappear quickly if the new floor does not stay in place. That is why this guide focuses so heavily on preparation, technique, and the choice of adhesive, because these three factors together determine whether your new parquet floor will last for decades or start failing within the first year.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Many people focus their attention on choosing the perfect wood species, finish, or color for their parquet flooring, but they underestimate the importance of the adhesive holding everything together. Tiles are smooth, non porous, and often slightly uneven surfaces, which makes them particularly challenging for standard wood glues. A weak or incompatible adhesive can result in:<\/p>\n\n\n\n
This is precisely why Ferber Painting developed Parquet Glue specifically to bond strongly with ceramic, porcelain, and glazed tile surfaces. Unlike generic wood adhesives that are designed for subfloors like concrete or plywood, our formula was engineered to grip onto smooth, non absorbent tile surfaces without requiring extensive sanding or roughening beforehand.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It is worth understanding the science behind why tile is such a difficult surface for adhesion in the first place. Ceramic and porcelain tiles are fired at extremely high temperatures, which creates a hard, glassy, and largely non porous surface. This is excellent for durability and cleaning, but it is terrible news for most adhesives, which rely on some degree of porosity to create a mechanical bond. Wood glues formulated for subfloors like plywood or concrete are designed to soak slightly into the material and interlock with its fibers or pores. On a glazed tile, there is nothing to soak into, so the bond relies almost entirely on chemical adhesion between the glue and the tile surface. This is a fundamentally different challenge, and it requires a fundamentally different formula, which is exactly what Ferber Painting Parquet Glue was designed to address.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Homeowners who attempt this project with a generic construction adhesive or an all purpose wood glue often report the same story: everything looks fine for the first few weeks, and then small problems begin to appear. A board near a doorway starts to lift slightly. A section near a window develops a hollow sound when walked on. Within a few months, entire rows can begin to separate from the tile beneath them. Fixing this after the fact is far more expensive and time consuming than doing the job correctly the first time with the right adhesive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
It can be tempting to save a few dollars by purchasing the cheapest adhesive available at a local hardware store, especially when parquet boards themselves can already represent a significant investment. However, this is exactly the wrong place to cut costs. Consider the math: if a low cost adhesive fails within two years and you need to lift the entire floor, clean the tiles again, purchase new adhesive, and potentially replace damaged boards, you will have spent far more money and time than if you had invested in a proper adhesive from the beginning. Labor costs alone, whether your own time or a professional installer’s fees, often exceed the price difference between a budget glue and a premium one many times over.<\/p>\n\n\n\n
There are dozens of parquet adhesives available online and in hardware stores, but very few are designed with tile installations in mind, and even fewer offer the level of customer confidence that we do. Here is what sets our product apart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Beyond these technical advantages, what truly makes Ferber Painting different is our confidence in our own product. We are the only company in this space offering a full satisfaction guaranteed or money back policy. This means that if for any reason you are not happy with the results, you can request a full refund. No competitor offers this level of assurance because most of them are not confident enough in the long term performance of their adhesive. We are.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Additionally, our worldwide shipping network ensures that no matter where you are located, your order will arrive quickly through trusted international carriers. Combined with a secure and straightforward online payment system, ordering from Ferber Painting is fast, safe, and hassle free from start to finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Ferber Painting Parquet Glue was not developed in a laboratory disconnected from real installation conditions. It was tested repeatedly on actual tile surfaces, including glossy ceramic tiles, matte porcelain tiles, and older tiles with slight surface wear, to ensure consistent performance across the range of tile types homeowners are likely to encounter. This real world testing approach means the product performs reliably whether you are working in a small bathroom, a large open concept kitchen, or a hallway that experiences heavy foot traffic every day.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Another factor that often gets overlooked when choosing an adhesive is indoor air quality during and after installation. Many traditional adhesives release strong fumes that can linger in a home for days, which is particularly problematic in smaller or poorly ventilated spaces. Ferber Painting formulated its Parquet Glue with this concern in mind, aiming for a lower odor profile compared to many traditional solvent based adhesives, making the installation process more comfortable for homeowners who are living in the space while the work is being done.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Whether you are installing solid hardwood parquet, engineered wood parquet, or reclaimed wood parquet with irregular dimensions, the adhesive needs to accommodate slightly different expansion and contraction behaviors. Solid wood parquet tends to move more with humidity changes than engineered parquet, which has a layered construction designed for greater dimensional stability. Ferber Painting Parquet Glue maintains flexibility once cured, allowing it to accommodate minor movements in the wood without cracking or losing its bond, which is particularly important for solid wood installations directly over tile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Before starting your parquet installation on tile, gather the following materials to ensure a smooth process:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Having all of these tools ready before you begin will prevent frustrating interruptions once you have already applied adhesive to the floor. Adhesives, including Ferber Painting Parquet Glue, have a limited open working time, so stopping midway to search for a missing tool can compromise the quality of your bond. Lay everything out in the room, within easy reach, before mixing or opening any adhesive containers.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first and most critical step is preparing your existing tile floor. Even the best adhesive will fail if applied to a dirty or greasy surface. Start by thoroughly cleaning the tiles with a degreasing solution to remove any wax, oil, or dust. Rinse well and allow the surface to dry completely.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Next, lightly sand the glazed surface of the tiles using fine grit sandpaper. This step is not always necessary with Ferber Painting’s Parquet Glue thanks to its strong grip formula, but for particularly glossy tiles, a light sanding can further improve adhesion. Vacuum any dust afterward to ensure a clean bonding surface.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It is also worth paying close attention to the grout lines between tiles. Over the years, grout can accumulate grease, soap residue, and grime that regular mopping does not fully remove. Use a stiff brush along with your degreasing solution to scrub these lines thoroughly. Any residue left in the grout lines can transfer to the adhesive and weaken the bond at those specific points, which may not seem significant at first but can add up across an entire floor and create numerous small weak spots.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If your tiles were previously treated with a sealant or a polish, this can also interfere with adhesion. Some sealants create an almost invisible film on the surface that actively repels adhesives. If you know or suspect that your tiles have been sealed or waxed at any point, consider using a stronger degreasing agent or a dedicated sealant remover before proceeding, and always test on a small inconspicuous area first.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Inspect the tile floor for any loose, cracked, or uneven tiles. Any instability in the base layer will eventually transfer to your parquet flooring. Repair or replace damaged tiles before proceeding, and use a leveling compound if necessary to correct minor unevenness.<\/p>\n\n\n\n A simple way to check for loose tiles is to tap each one gently with the handle of a screwdriver or a similar hard object and listen for a hollow sound, which usually indicates that the tile has separated from the subfloor beneath it. Mark any suspect tiles with a piece of tape so you can address them before moving forward. Loose tiles should be removed, the area cleaned, and the tile reset with fresh tile adhesive, then allowed to cure fully before you begin your parquet installation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For unevenness, a long spirit level or a straight edge placed across several tiles will quickly reveal any dips or high points. Minor variations of a few millimeters can often be compensated for by the parquet glue itself, but larger irregularities of a centimeter or more should be corrected with a self leveling compound. Skipping this step can result in a floor that feels uneven underfoot or, worse, creates stress points where boards are forced to bridge over gaps, eventually leading to cracking.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Measure the room carefully and plan the direction and layout of your parquet boards. Most professionals recommend installing parquet parallel to the main light source in the room for a more natural look. Dry lay a few rows without glue first to confirm your pattern and check that the boards fit properly around edges and obstacles.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When planning your layout, take the time to measure the width of the room and calculate how many full boards will fit before you reach the opposite wall. If the calculation leaves you with a very thin sliver of board at the final row, it is often better to trim a small amount from the first row as well, so that both edges of the room have boards of a similar, more visually balanced width. This attention to detail is what separates an amateur looking installation from a professional finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Consider also the pattern you want to achieve. Straight lay patterns, where boards run in parallel rows, are the simplest for beginners and work well over tile because they minimize the number of complex cuts required. Herringbone and chevron patterns are more visually striking but require significantly more precision, more cutting, and a stronger understanding of how the pattern will interact with adhesive coverage. If this is your first time gluing parquet onto tile, a straight lay pattern is generally the safer and more forgiving choice.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Do not forget to account for doorways, closets, and transitions to other flooring types in adjacent rooms. Plan where these transitions will occur and whether you will need transition strips or thresholds, and purchase these materials ahead of time so they are ready when you reach that stage of the installation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Using a notched trowel, apply an even layer of Ferber Painting Parquet Glue directly onto the tile surface. Work in small sections at a time, roughly one square meter, to prevent the glue from drying before you place the boards. Our formula is designed to remain workable for a comfortable amount of time, giving you flexibility without sacrificing strong adhesion once cured.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The size of the notches on your trowel matters more than many first time installers realize. Too fine a notch will not deposit enough adhesive to create a strong bond, while too coarse a notch can waste product and create an uneven surface that leaves air pockets under the boards. As a general guideline, a trowel with notches around six to eight millimeters is suitable for most standard parquet board thicknesses, but always check the manufacturer specifications on your particular boards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hold the trowel at a consistent angle, generally around forty five degrees, while spreading the adhesive to ensure an even ridge height across the entire section. Working in small sections is especially important in warmer rooms or during summer months, when adhesive can begin to skin over more quickly. If you notice the surface of the adhesive starting to form a film or skin before you have placed your boards, scrape it off and reapply a fresh layer rather than laying boards on top of a compromised bonding surface.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Place the first row of parquet boards into the adhesive, pressing down firmly. Use spacers along the walls to leave an expansion gap, which allows the wood to naturally expand and contract with temperature and humidity changes. Continue laying boards row by row, using a rubber mallet to gently tap them into place and ensure full contact with the glue.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Start your first row along the longest and straightest wall in the room, using a chalk line as a guide to keep the row perfectly straight. Any small deviation in the first row will be magnified as you work across the room, so take extra time to get this starting line exactly right. As you place each board, slide it slightly into position rather than dropping it straight down, which helps push out any trapped air and ensures better contact with the adhesive beneath.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When you reach the end of a row and need to cut a board to fit, measure twice before cutting. Remember to account for the expansion gap on both ends of the row. Keep any offcuts that are still a reasonable length, since these can often be used to start the next row, which also helps create a more natural, staggered appearance across the floor, similar to traditional brick laying patterns.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Stagger the end joints between rows by at least twenty centimeters, or roughly the width of one third of a board, to avoid creating a repetitive pattern that can look artificial and to improve the overall structural integrity of the floor once installed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Once a section is laid, go over it with a heavy roller or place weights on top to ensure maximum contact between the parquet and the adhesive. This step significantly improves the bonding strength and prevents air pockets from forming underneath the boards.<\/p>\n\n\n\n If you do not have access to a flooring roller, sandbags, buckets filled with water, or stacks of heavy books wrapped in plastic sheeting can serve as effective substitutes. The goal is simply to apply consistent, even downward pressure across the freshly laid boards while the adhesive is still workable. Leave the weights in place for at least the minimum amount of time recommended for your specific adhesive, and resist the temptation to remove them early just to check on progress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Let the adhesive cure according to the recommended drying time. Avoid walking on the newly installed floor during this period. Ferber Painting Parquet Glue offers a fast curing formula compared to many competitor products, allowing you to enjoy your new floor sooner without compromising on durability.<\/p>\n\n\n\n During the curing period, try to maintain a stable temperature and humidity level in the room. Avoid opening windows to extreme cold or hot air, and avoid running heating or cooling systems at unusually high settings, as sudden temperature swings can affect how the adhesive cures and how the wood settles into its new position. If possible, keep pets and children out of the room entirely during this period, since even light foot traffic can shift boards before the bond has fully developed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Once the glue has fully cured, remove the spacers along the walls. Install skirting boards or trim to cover the expansion gap for a clean, professional finish. Inspect the entire floor for any boards that may need slight adjustment or additional pressure.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Walk across the entire floor slowly, paying attention to any areas that feel slightly soft, hollow, or uneven underfoot. These could indicate a small air pocket beneath a board that did not receive full adhesive contact. In most cases, this can be addressed by drilling a small discreet hole and injecting a small amount of additional adhesive, then weighting the area again until it cures. Catching and fixing these minor issues immediately after installation is far easier than dealing with them months later once furniture and daily life have returned to the room.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Finally, clean the entire floor gently to remove any adhesive residue, dust, or footprints accumulated during the installation process. Follow the manufacturer recommendations for the parquet finish you selected regarding appropriate cleaning products, since some harsh chemicals can damage certain wood finishes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Even with the best products, installation errors can compromise your results. Here are some common mistakes to avoid:<\/p>\n\n\n\n On that last point, acclimation deserves special attention. Wood is a living material that continues to react to its environment even after it has been milled into flooring boards. If you install boards straight out of a cold delivery truck or a humid storage warehouse, they may expand or contract slightly once they reach the temperature and humidity of your home, potentially loosening the bond with the adhesive beneath them. Most manufacturers recommend leaving parquet boards in the room where they will be installed for at least forty eight to seventy two hours before starting the project, allowing them to adjust naturally.<\/p>\n\n\n\n By using Ferber Painting Parquet Glue and following this guide carefully, you significantly reduce the risk of these issues, thanks to a formula specifically engineered for challenging surfaces like tile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Once your parquet flooring is successfully installed and glued over your existing tiles, a little ongoing care will help ensure it stays beautiful and structurally sound for many years to come. Avoid using excessive water when cleaning, since standing moisture can seep between boards and weaken the bond over time, even with a moisture resistant adhesive like Ferber Painting Parquet Glue. Instead, use a slightly damp mop and dry the surface promptly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Place felt pads under furniture legs to prevent scratches and to distribute weight more evenly across the floor, reducing stress on individual boards. In rooms with heavy foot traffic, consider using rugs or runners in key pathways to reduce wear over time. Finally, monitor humidity levels in your home throughout the changing seasons, since extreme swings in humidity remain one of the most common causes of long term issues with any wood flooring, regardless of how it was installed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Can I install parquet directly on tiles without removing them?<\/p>\n\n\n Yes, as long as the tiles are stable, clean, and properly prepared, you can install parquet directly on top using a strong adhesive like Ferber Painting Parquet Glue, which is specifically formulated for this purpose.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Do I need to sand the tiles before applying the glue?<\/p>\n\n\n Light sanding is recommended for very glossy tiles to improve grip, but Ferber Painting’s Parquet Glue is designed to adhere strongly even on smooth surfaces without extensive preparation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n How long does it take for the glue to dry?<\/p>\n\n\n Drying times vary depending on humidity and temperature, but Ferber Painting Parquet Glue offers a fast curing formula compared to many competitor products, generally allowing foot traffic sooner.<\/p>\n\n\n\n What happens if I am not satisfied with the product?<\/p>\n\n\n Ferber Painting is the only company in this category offering a full satisfaction guaranteed or money back policy. If you are not happy with the results, you can request a refund with no complications.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Does Ferber Painting ship internationally?<\/p>\n\n\n Yes, Ferber Painting delivers quickly worldwide through a reliable international carrier network, and payment can be completed easily and securely online.<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n
\n Criteria<\/th>\n Ferber Painting Parquet Glue<\/th>\n Typical Competitor Adhesives<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n \n Satisfaction guaranteed or money back<\/td>\n Yes, full refund if not satisfied<\/td>\n Rarely offered, or limited to defective products only<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Designed specifically for tile surfaces<\/td>\n Yes, formulated for smooth non porous surfaces<\/td>\n Usually designed for concrete or wood subfloors<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Worldwide fast shipping<\/td>\n Yes, international carrier network<\/td>\n Often limited to local or regional shipping<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Online payment simplicity<\/td>\n Secure and instant online checkout<\/td>\n Varies, sometimes requires phone orders or in store purchase<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Drying time<\/td>\n Fast curing formula<\/td>\n Often slower, extending project time<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Moisture resistance<\/td>\n High resistance, prevents mold growth<\/td>\n Variable, some products are not moisture resistant<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n \n Ease of application<\/td>\n Smooth trowel application, beginner friendly<\/td>\n Can be thick or difficult to spread evenly<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n A Formula Built From Real World Testing<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Environmental and Health Considerations<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Compatibility With Different Parquet Types<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Tools and Materials You Will Need<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Step by Step Guide: How to Install and Glue Parquet Flooring on Tiles<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Step 1: Prepare the Tile Surface<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Step 2: Check for Level and Stability<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Step 3: Plan Your Layout<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Step 4: Apply Ferber Painting Parquet Glue<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Step 5: Lay the Parquet Boards<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Step 6: Press and Secure the Flooring<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Step 7: Allow the Glue to Cure<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Step 8: Finish the Edges and Remove Spacers<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
Common Mistakes to Avoid<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Maintaining Your Parquet Floor After Installation<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Frequently Asked Questions<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
Conclusion<\/h2>\n\n\n\n