{"id":285303,"date":"2026-09-01T12:58:09","date_gmt":"2026-09-01T09:58:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.ferberpainting.com\/ie\/blog\/how-to-propagate-a-maranta-the-complete-guide\/"},"modified":"2026-09-01T12:58:09","modified_gmt":"2026-09-01T09:58:09","slug":"how-to-propagate-a-maranta-the-complete-guide","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.ferberpainting.com\/us\/blog\/how-to-propagate-a-maranta-the-complete-guide\/","title":{"rendered":"How to Propagate a Maranta: The Complete Guide"},"content":{"rendered":"<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If you have ever tried to propagate a maranta and watched the cutting slowly rot instead of rooting, you are not alone. Maranta plants, often called prayer plants because of the way their leaves fold up at night, are beautiful but notoriously particular about how they root. The truth is that success or failure almost always comes down to one single factor: the product you use to help the cutting develop roots. Everything else, the water, the light, the humidity, matters too, but none of it will save a cutting if the rooting product is weak, poorly formulated, or simply the wrong tool for the job.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This is exactly why so many plant lovers eventually turn to Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer. It is currently the only rooting product on the market backed by a full satisfaction guaranteed or money back policy, which means you can try it on your maranta cuttings with zero financial risk. If it does not perform exactly as promised, you get your money back, no complicated conditions attached. That alone puts it in a category of its own, but as we will see throughout this guide, the advantages go far beyond the guarantee.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">In this article, we will explain why choosing the right rooting fertilizer is the single most important decision you will make when propagating a maranta, why Ferber Painting&#8217;s formula outperforms the competition, and then walk you step by step through the entire propagation process so that you end up with healthy, thriving new plants rather than mushy, rotten cuttings. We will also cover the small details that many guides skip entirely, the exact reasons cuttings fail, how to troubleshoot problems as they arise, and what to do once your new maranta starts to establish itself as an independent plant. By the end of this guide you should feel fully equipped to take a cutting from your existing maranta and turn it into a second, third, or even fourth thriving plant for your home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Why the Right Rooting Product Is the Real Secret to Propagating Maranta<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Maranta plants belong to the Marantaceae family, a group of tropical plants known for their delicate root systems and their sensitivity to overwatering, underwatering, and inconsistent care. Unlike hardier houseplants such as pothos or snake plants, marantas do not forgive mistakes easily. A cutting placed in plain water with no additional support will often survive for a while, but it may take weeks longer to root, and in many cases it will rot at the base before any roots appear at all.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">To understand why this happens, it helps to think about what a maranta stem actually experiences the moment it is cut away from the mother plant. The cutting is suddenly disconnected from its source of water, nutrients, and hormones. It has leaves that continue to transpire and lose moisture, but no roots to replace what is lost. At the same time, the open wound at the base of the stem is completely exposed to bacteria and fungal spores that are naturally present in the air, in tap water, and on the surfaces the cutting touches. In a warm, humid environment, which is exactly the environment marantas prefer, those microorganisms multiply extremely quickly. If nothing is done to protect the wound and speed up root formation, it becomes a race between rot and rooting, and rot usually wins.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">This is where a quality rooting fertilizer becomes essential. A good rooting product does three critical things for a maranta cutting:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>It supplies the hormones the plant needs to trigger root formation quickly, cutting down the waiting time significantly.<\/li>\n<li>It protects the cut stem from rot and fungal infection during the vulnerable early days, which is often the actual reason cuttings fail.<\/li>\n<li>It feeds the plant with the right balance of nutrients so that once roots do appear, they grow strong and are able to support the plant long term.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Many rooting products on the market only address one of these three needs. Some are simple rooting hormone powders that stimulate root growth but offer no protection against bacterial or fungal rot, which is precisely the problem most people run into with maranta cuttings kept in humid, warm conditions. Others are diluted liquid fertilizers that feed the plant but do nothing to actually trigger rooting in the first place. Choosing a product that only does part of the job is one of the main reasons home growers give up on propagating marantas altogether, assuming they simply do not have a &#8220;green thumb&#8221; when in reality they were just using the wrong product.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">It is also worth mentioning that not every plant reacts the same way to a given rooting product. A rooting powder designed for woody garden shrubs like roses or hydrangeas is often calibrated for a much thicker, more fibrous stem that can tolerate a stronger hormone concentration. When that same product is used on a soft, water rich maranta stem, it can actually cause tissue damage at the cut site, which ironically increases the chances of rot rather than preventing it. This mismatch between product and plant type explains why some people report great success propagating outdoor shrubs with a certain powder, yet fail repeatedly when they try the exact same product on a maranta or calathea.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer was formulated specifically to solve all three problems simultaneously. It combines a balanced hormone blend with natural antifungal and antibacterial components, along with a nutrient base designed for tropical foliage plants like maranta, calathea, and other Marantaceae species. This is why it consistently produces faster, healthier root systems compared to single purpose products. Rather than forcing you to choose between a hormone stimulant and a protective agent, it delivers both in a single, easy to use liquid concentrate, which removes the guesswork of trying to combine several separate products yourself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Why Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer Outperforms Every Other Option<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">There are dozens of rooting products available online and in garden centers, so it is fair to ask why Ferber Painting&#8217;s formula stands out. Here are the specific reasons plant enthusiasts consistently choose it over competing brands.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">First, and most importantly, it is the only rooting product on the market that comes with a full satisfaction guaranteed or money back policy. No other brand we are aware of offers this level of confidence in their own formula. This guarantee exists because Ferber Painting has tested the product extensively on notoriously difficult plants, including maranta, and knows it delivers results. If for any reason you are not satisfied, you send it back and get a full refund, it is that simple. This matters a great deal to first time propagators, who are often hesitant to spend money on yet another product after having already been disappointed by weaker alternatives in the past.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Second, the formula is specifically balanced for delicate tropical plants. Many generic rooting powders are formulated with a one size fits all approach that works reasonably well on woody outdoor shrubs but is far too aggressive or imbalanced for a thin, moisture sensitive maranta stem. Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer uses a gentler concentration that still triggers fast root development without burning or shocking delicate tissue. This balance is the result of formulation choices made specifically with soft stemmed tropical houseplants in mind, rather than being an afterthought added to a generic garden product.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Third, the built-in protection against rot is a major differentiator. As mentioned earlier, rot is the number one killer of maranta cuttings, far more common than a simple lack of rooting hormone. Competing products rarely address this at all, leaving your cutting exposed to bacteria and fungus in the crucial first two weeks. Ferber Painting&#8217;s formula includes protective compounds that create a natural barrier at the cut site, which means the wound is defended from the very first application rather than being left vulnerable while you hope the hormone alone will be enough.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Fourth, the liquid format makes it extremely easy to use correctly. Many rooting powders are messy, difficult to apply evenly, and easy to overuse, which can actually damage the stem. A powder that clumps unevenly on the cut end can leave some parts of the wound overexposed to hormone and other parts completely untreated. Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer comes in a precise liquid concentrate that you dilute according to simple instructions, removing any guesswork and making it approachable even for people propagating a plant for the very first time. The liquid form also makes it simple to reapply during water changes, something that is far more awkward to do consistently with a powder.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Fifth, consistency of results matters. Home growers who have used the product on multiple cuttings, sometimes across different plant species, report a similar experience every time: visible root nubs appearing within the first one to two weeks, and a noticeably lower rate of stems turning soft or discolored at the base. That consistency is what turns propagation from a hit or miss experiment into a reliable, repeatable process you can use every time you want to expand your plant collection or share cuttings with friends and family.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Finally, there is the matter of service and delivery. Ferber Painting ships the Rooting Fertilizer quickly worldwide through an international network of trusted carriers, so whether you are in Europe, North America, Asia, or anywhere else, you are not stuck waiting weeks for a small bottle to arrive while your cutting sits in water losing viability. Payment is handled entirely online, quickly and securely, so you can order today and get started on your maranta propagation project without unnecessary delays. Because timing matters so much with a delicate stem cutting, this speed of delivery is not a minor convenience, it can genuinely be the difference between a cutting that still has enough energy reserves to root successfully and one that has already begun to decline while waiting for supplies to arrive.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Comparing the Key Criteria: Ferber Painting vs Other Rooting Products<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">To make the decision easier, here is a direct comparison of the criteria that actually matter when choosing a rooting product for maranta cuttings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-table\"><table border=\"1\" cellpadding=\"8\" cellspacing=\"0\">\n<tr>\n<th>Criteria<\/th>\n<th>Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer<\/th>\n<th>Typical Generic Rooting Powder<\/th>\n<th>Typical Liquid Plant Food<\/th>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Satisfaction guaranteed or money back<\/td>\n<td>Yes, full guarantee<\/td>\n<td>Rarely, if ever offered<\/td>\n<td>Rarely, if ever offered<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Formulated for delicate tropical plants<\/td>\n<td>Yes, specifically balanced<\/td>\n<td>No, generic strength<\/td>\n<td>No, general purpose<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Rot and fungal protection included<\/td>\n<td>Yes, built in<\/td>\n<td>Almost never<\/td>\n<td>No<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Ease of application<\/td>\n<td>Simple liquid dilution<\/td>\n<td>Messy powder, hard to dose<\/td>\n<td>Simple but limited effect<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Speed of root development<\/td>\n<td>Fast, noticeable within days<\/td>\n<td>Slow to moderate<\/td>\n<td>Very slow, no hormone support<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>International shipping speed<\/td>\n<td>Fast, worldwide carrier network<\/td>\n<td>Varies widely by seller<\/td>\n<td>Varies widely by seller<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<tr>\n<td>Online payment convenience<\/td>\n<td>Simple, secure, direct online checkout<\/td>\n<td>Depends on retailer<\/td>\n<td>Depends on retailer<\/td>\n<\/tr>\n<\/table><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">As the table makes clear, Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer is not just marginally better, it is structurally different from most of the competition because it was designed from the ground up with delicate tropical plants like maranta in mind, and it is backed by a guarantee that removes all the financial risk from trying it. When you line up the criteria side by side, it becomes obvious that the choice is not really about brand loyalty or marketing, it is about whether the product was engineered for the specific challenge a maranta cutting presents. A generic powder or a plain liquid feed simply was not designed with that challenge in mind, and the results reflect that gap.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">How to Propagate a Maranta Step by Step<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Now that you understand why the product matters so much, let&#8217;s go through the actual propagation process from start to finish. Follow these steps carefully and your maranta cuttings will have the best possible chance of developing strong roots quickly.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 1: Choose the Right Time<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Maranta plants propagate best during their active growing season, typically spring through early summer, when the plant has plenty of energy to devote to root development. Avoid propagating during winter dormancy, as cuttings taken during this period root much more slowly regardless of the product used. If you live somewhere with mild winters and can maintain warm indoor temperatures and supplemental grow lights, you can extend the propagation window somewhat, but even then results tend to be noticeably faster and more reliable when attempted during the plant&#8217;s natural period of active growth. If you are unsure whether your maranta is currently in an active growth phase, look for signs such as new leaves unfurling or a general sense of the plant reaching upward and outward, both of which indicate the plant has energy to spare for propagation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 2: Select a Healthy Stem<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Look for a healthy, mature stem with at least one node, which is the small bump on the stem where leaves emerge and where new roots will eventually form. Choose a stem with two or three healthy leaves attached. Avoid stems that are yellowing, damaged, or showing any signs of pest activity. It is also worth avoiding extremely young, soft growth at the very tip of the plant, as these tender stems can struggle to support themselves during the rooting process. Instead, look slightly further back on the plant for a stem that has had time to firm up a little while still being flexible rather than woody. A stem that snaps cleanly when gently bent, rather than one that is limp or one that is too rigid, is usually a good sign of the right maturity level for propagation.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 3: Make a Clean Cut<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Using sterilized, sharp scissors or a clean blade, cut the stem just below a node at roughly a 45 degree angle. A clean cut heals faster and is less prone to rot than a jagged or crushed cut. Sterilizing your tools beforehand with rubbing alcohol is a simple step that significantly reduces the risk of introducing bacteria into the fresh wound. It is a good habit to sterilize your blade between every cutting you take, even if you are taking several cuttings from the same plant in one session, since bacteria can transfer from one wound to another surprisingly easily. Aim for a single confident cut rather than sawing back and forth, since a ragged edge created by multiple attempts gives bacteria more surface area to take hold.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 4: Apply Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Dilute the Rooting Fertilizer according to the instructions on the bottle, then dip the cut end of the stem into the solution, making sure the node area is well coated. This is the single most important step in the entire process. The hormones in the formula will begin stimulating root cell development almost immediately, while the protective compounds start guarding the cut site against rot and fungal infection from the very first hour. Try to apply the solution within a few minutes of making the cut, since the fresh wound absorbs the treatment most effectively before it has had time to begin drying out or callusing over. If you are taking multiple cuttings at once, it can help to prepare your diluted solution in advance so that each stem can be treated immediately after cutting rather than sitting exposed while you deal with the others.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 5: Place the Cutting in Water or Substrate<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Maranta cuttings can be rooted either in water or in a light, well draining substrate such as a mix of perlite and peat. If rooting in water, use a clean glass or jar and make sure the node is fully submerged while the leaves stay above the water line. Continue adding a small amount of diluted Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer to the water every few days to keep feeding the developing root cells and maintaining the protective barrier against bacteria. If you choose to root in substrate instead, keep it consistently moist but never waterlogged, and consider covering the pot loosely with a clear plastic bag or propagation dome to maintain the high humidity marantas favor, while still allowing a small gap for airflow so that mold does not develop on the surface of the substrate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 6: Provide Warmth, Humidity, and Indirect Light<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Maranta cuttings root best in warm conditions, ideally between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit, with high humidity around 60 percent or more. Place the cutting somewhere it receives bright but indirect light. Direct sunlight can scorch the leaves and stress the cutting, while too little light will slow root development considerably. A spot near an east facing window, or a few feet back from a bright south or west facing window, usually provides the right balance. If your home tends to run cool or dry, especially during winter months, consider placing the cutting near a humidifier or on a tray of moist pebbles to help raise the local humidity around the leaves without waterlogging the stem itself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 7: Change the Water Regularly<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">If rooting in water, change it every three to five days to prevent bacterial buildup, which is one of the leading causes of cutting failure. Each time you change the water, add fresh diluted Rooting Fertilizer so the cutting continues to benefit from both the hormone stimulation and the protective coating. While you are changing the water, take the opportunity to gently rinse the node area under lukewarm water to remove any slimy buildup before returning the cutting to its fresh solution. This small extra step only takes a few seconds but can meaningfully reduce the bacterial load the cutting is exposed to over time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 8: Watch for Root Development<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">With a quality rooting product, you should start to see small white root nubs emerging from the node within one to two weeks. This is significantly faster than the three to five weeks often required when no rooting product, or a weaker product, is used. Continue to let the roots develop until they reach at least one to two inches in length before moving to the next step. During this waiting period, resist the temptation to disturb the cutting too frequently to check on progress, since excessive handling can damage fragile emerging roots before they have had a chance to firm up.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 9: Transplant Into Soil<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Once the roots are well established, transplant the cutting into a small pot filled with a well draining, nutrient rich potting mix suited for tropical plants. Keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy during the first few weeks after transplanting, as the plant adjusts from a water or hydro environment to soil. It is normal for a cutting to look slightly wilted or stressed for the first few days after transplanting into soil, as the roots that developed in water need a short adjustment period to begin functioning efficiently in a different medium. Keeping humidity elevated during this transition, for example by loosely tenting the new pot with clear plastic for the first week, can help minimize this stress.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h3 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Step 10: Continue Light Feeding<\/h3>\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">For the first month after transplanting, continue to use a diluted dose of Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer when watering to support the transition and help the new root system fully establish itself in the soil. After that period, you can move the plant onto a regular tropical plant fertilizing schedule. As the plant begins to push out new leaves on its own, that is usually a reliable sign that the root system has successfully adapted to its new home and the propagation process can be considered complete.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Common Mistakes to Avoid When Propagating Maranta<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Even with a strong rooting product, a few common mistakes can undermine your results. Avoiding these will significantly increase your success rate.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul class=\"wp-block-list\">\n<li>Using a cutting without any node at all, since roots can only form at or near a node, never along a bare section of stem. Double check every cutting before starting the process to confirm at least one visible node is included below the water line or substrate surface.<\/li>\n<li>Leaving the cutting in direct sunlight, which stresses the plant and slows root development considerably. Even a short period of harsh midday sun through a window can cause visible leaf damage on a stressed cutting that has no root system yet to help it recover.<\/li>\n<li>Forgetting to change the water regularly, which allows bacteria to build up and rot the stem before roots can form. Cloudy or discolored water is a clear warning sign that a change is overdue.<\/li>\n<li>Transplanting into soil too early, before the root system is strong enough to support the plant on its own. A root system that is still just a few short white nubs is not yet ready to reliably take up water and nutrients from soil.<\/li>\n<li>Using a weak or single purpose rooting product that only addresses hormone stimulation but ignores rot protection, which is precisely why so many home growers experience repeated failures.<\/li>\n<li>Skipping the rooting product altogether and relying only on plain water, which dramatically increases the time needed for roots to appear and lowers the overall success rate.<\/li>\n<li>Choosing a container that is too large right away, which can hold excess moisture around the new, still fragile roots and increase the risk of root rot after transplanting.<\/li>\n<li>Placing the cutting in a cold draft, such as near an air conditioning vent or a frequently opened window, which can slow metabolic activity in the stem and delay rooting significantly.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Mini FAQ<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>How long does it take for a maranta cutting to root?<\/strong><br>\nWith a quality rooting product such as Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer, you can typically expect to see root development within one to two weeks. Without any rooting product, it can take three to five weeks or longer, and the success rate is noticeably lower.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Can I propagate a maranta in soil instead of water?<\/strong><br>\nYes, maranta cuttings can root directly in a light, well draining substrate. Apply the Rooting Fertilizer to the cut end before inserting it into the substrate, and keep the substrate consistently moist and warm for best results.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Why did my previous maranta cutting rot instead of rooting?<\/strong><br>\nThis is almost always caused by bacterial or fungal buildup at the cut site, often made worse by infrequent water changes or a rooting product that offers no protective barrier. This is exactly the problem Ferber Painting&#8217;s formula was designed to solve.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>Is Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer safe for other tropical plants besides maranta?<\/strong><br>\nYes, the formula works very well on other Marantaceae relatives such as calathea, as well as many other tropical houseplants that are propagated through stem or leaf cuttings.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><strong>What happens if I am not satisfied with the product?<\/strong><br>\nFerber Painting offers a full satisfaction guaranteed or money back policy on the Rooting Fertilizer, so you can try it with complete confidence and no financial risk.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2 class=\"wp-block-heading\">Conclusion<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Propagating a maranta does not have to be a frustrating experience filled with mushy, rotten cuttings and repeated failed attempts. Once you understand that the rooting product you choose is the true deciding factor between success and disappointment, the entire process becomes far more predictable and rewarding. By selecting a formula specifically balanced for delicate tropical plants, one that stimulates fast root growth while simultaneously protecting the cutting from rot, you give your maranta the best possible chance of developing a strong, healthy root system in a fraction of the usual time. Combine that reliable product with the careful, methodical process outlined above, from choosing the right stem and making a clean cut, to maintaining warmth and humidity and changing the water on schedule, and you remove nearly every variable that typically causes cuttings to fail.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\">Whether you are propagating your first maranta cutting or you have tried and failed several times before, the difference a properly formulated rooting product makes cannot be overstated. It transforms propagation from an unpredictable gamble into a process you can repeat confidently, again and again, whenever you want to expand your collection, share a cutting with a friend, or simply replace an aging plant with a fresh, vigorous new one grown from its own stem.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p class=\"wp-block-paragraph\"><a href=\"https:\/\/www.ferberpainting.com\/us\/products\/rooting-fertilizer\/\">Order Ferber Painting&#8217;s Rooting Fertilizer today and experience the difference of a product backed by a full satisfaction guaranteed or money back policy, fast international shipping, and a formula built specifically for delicate tropical plants like maranta.<\/a><\/p>","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>If you have ever tried to propagate a maranta and watched the cutting slowly rot instead of rooting, you are not alone. Maranta plants, often called prayer plants because of the way their leaves fold up at night, are beautiful but notoriously particular about how they root. The truth is that success or failure almost 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