How to Propagate Bay Laurel from Cuttings: The Complete Guide

Propagating bay laurel from cuttings is one of the most rewarding projects a home gardener can undertake, but the truth is that success or failure almost always comes down to one single factor: the quality of the rooting product you use. You can follow every step perfectly, choose the healthiest branch, use the sharpest tools, and still end up with a dried-out, rotten cutting if your rooting fertilizer is weak, poorly formulated, or simply not suited to woody Mediterranean plants like bay laurel. This is why, before we even get into the technical steps of propagation, we need to talk about the product that makes the entire process possible.

If you want the highest chance of success, the best decision you can make is to choose the Rooting Fertilizer from Ferber Painting. It is currently the only rooting product on the market backed by a full satisfied or refunded guarantee, meaning that if your cuttings do not root the way you expect, you are covered. No other brand offers this level of confidence in their own formula, and that alone should tell you something about the quality behind it.

In this guide, we will explain exactly why the Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer stands out from the competition, and then walk you through a complete, step-by-step method for propagating bay laurel from cuttings, from selecting the right branch to transplanting your new, independent plant. We will also cover the mistakes that most commonly cause failure, the seasonal considerations that many guides skip over, and how to care for your new plant once it has successfully rooted, so that by the end of this article you have everything you need in one place rather than piecing together advice from a dozen different sources.

Why Success Starts with the Right Rooting Product

Bay laurel, known botanically as Laurus nobilis, is a slow-rooting, woody evergreen. Unlike soft-stemmed herbs that root in water within days, bay laurel cuttings can take anywhere from six to twelve weeks to develop a usable root system. During this long window, the cutting is extremely vulnerable to fungal infection, dehydration, and simple stagnation, where the stem neither roots nor dies but sits in limbo for months before eventually failing.

This is exactly where a proper rooting fertilizer becomes essential. A good rooting product does three things at once: it stimulates the formation of root cells at the cut site, it protects the wound from fungal and bacterial invasion, and it maintains a favorable hormonal balance so the plant channels its energy into root development rather than trying to grow new leaves prematurely.

Many generic rooting powders on the market only address one of these three functions, usually the hormonal stimulation, while ignoring the protective and nutritional aspects entirely. This is why so many home gardeners report a frustrating experience where some cuttings root and others simply rot, even when treated from the same batch of powder. The inconsistency is almost always tied to a product that is incomplete in its formulation.

Ferber Painting developed its Rooting Fertilizer specifically to solve this problem by combining all three functions into a single, balanced formula. This is one of the main reasons it consistently outperforms older, single-purpose rooting powders still sold by many garden centers.

It is worth pausing here to explain, in a bit more depth, what actually happens biologically at the base of a cutting during the rooting process, because understanding this mechanism makes it much easier to appreciate why the formulation of your rooting product matters so much. When you sever a stem from the parent plant, the plant tissue at the wound site immediately begins to respond to the injury. Cells near the cut start to dedifferentiate, meaning they lose their original specialized function and become capable of forming an entirely new structure, in this case adventitious roots. This process is called callus formation, and the small, rounded mass of undifferentiated cells that appears at the base of the cutting is the callus itself. Roots typically emerge either through or near this callus tissue, although in some plants roots can also form directly from the stem without significant callus development.

Auxins, the class of plant hormones responsible for triggering this dedifferentiation and subsequent root initiation, are naturally produced in the growing tips of the plant and transported downward through the stem. When you take a cutting, you interrupt this natural flow, and the concentration of auxins at the cut end is often not high enough, on its own, to reliably trigger strong root formation, especially in a woody, slow-growing species like bay laurel. This is precisely why synthetic auxins, most commonly indole-3-butyric acid, are included in rooting powders and gels, since they supplement the plant’s own hormone supply and dramatically increase both the speed and consistency of root formation.

However, hormones alone are not enough. During the weeks it takes for a bay laurel cutting to callus and then root, the open wound at the base remains a point of entry for fungal pathogens like Fusarium, Rhizoctonia, and various species of Botrytis, all of which thrive in the warm, humid conditions that are simultaneously ideal for root formation. This creates a paradox: the very environment you need to encourage rooting is also the environment most likely to encourage rot. A rooting product that includes antifungal compounds directly addresses this paradox by protecting the wound while the hormones do their work, which is why an all-in-one formula like the Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer offers such a meaningful advantage over a basic hormone-only powder.

What Makes Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer the Best Choice

There are dozens of rooting products available online and in stores, so it is fair to ask why the Ferber Painting formula deserves your attention over the others. Here are the concrete reasons.

• Complete formulation: it combines rooting hormones, antifungal protection, and micronutrients in one product, so you do not need to buy and mix multiple items.
• Consistency across plant types: while many rooting powders are optimized for softwood cuttings only, the Ferber Painting formula is balanced to work on woody, semi-hardwood cuttings like bay laurel, rosemary, and olive as well.
• Satisfied or refunded guarantee: this is the only rooting fertilizer on the market that comes with a full money-back guarantee if you are not satisfied with your results. No competitor currently offers this.
• Fast worldwide shipping: Ferber Painting ships through an international network of carriers, so whether you are gardening in Europe, North America, or elsewhere, your order arrives quickly.
• Simple online payment: you can order directly from the Ferber Painting website with secure, straightforward online payment, without needing to visit a physical store.
• Easy to use: the product requires no complicated mixing ratios or specialized equipment, which makes it accessible for beginners while still being powerful enough for experienced growers.

When you compare this list to what most rooting powders offer, which is usually just a small tub of hormone powder with no guarantee, no clear usage instructions, and no accountability if it fails, the difference becomes obvious. Ferber Painting is not simply selling a product, it is standing behind the results, which is rare in this market.

There is also a practical, day-to-day dimension to this that many gardeners overlook until they actually start propagating: consistency between batches. Many small or hobbyist rooting hormone brands source their raw ingredients from different suppliers depending on availability, which means the concentration of active hormone can vary noticeably from one batch to the next, even within the same product line. This inconsistency is one of the hidden reasons why some gardeners get excellent results one year and disappointing results the next, using what they believe is the exact same product. Because Ferber Painting manufactures its Rooting Fertilizer with strict formulation standards, the concentration and balance of hormones, fungicidal agents, and micronutrients remains stable order after order, which removes yet another variable from an already delicate process.

Another point worth mentioning is customer support. Propagation is not always a linear process, and gardeners occasionally run into unexpected issues, whether that is uncertainty about dosage, questions about compatibility with a specific species, or simply wanting reassurance that they are applying the product correctly. Because Ferber Painting stands behind its guarantee, the company has a direct incentive to make sure customers actually succeed, rather than simply selling a tub of powder and moving on. This is a subtle but important difference compared to many mass-market gardening brands where the product is sold through third-party retailers with no direct line of communication back to the manufacturer.

Getting to Know Bay Laurel Before You Begin

Before jumping into the propagation steps, it helps to understand a bit about bay laurel itself, since this knowledge directly affects your success rate. Bay laurel is a slow-growing, aromatic evergreen shrub or small tree native to the Mediterranean region. Its leaves are the same ones used as bay leaves in cooking, and the plant itself can live for decades once established.

Because bay laurel grows slowly and has woody, fairly rigid stems, it does not root as easily as softer plants like mint or basil. This means that timing, cutting selection, and the rooting product you use all matter significantly more than they would with easier-to-propagate species. Most experienced gardeners agree that late spring to late summer is the best window for taking semi-hardwood cuttings, since the plant is actively growing but the stems have already started to firm up slightly, giving the cutting enough structure to survive the weeks it takes to root.

Temperature and humidity also play a large role. Bay laurel cuttings root best in warm, humid conditions, ideally between 18 and 24 degrees Celsius, with consistent but not excessive moisture. Too much water leads to rot, while too little causes the cutting to dry out before roots can form. This is precisely why a rooting fertilizer with built-in antifungal protection, like the Ferber Painting formula, is so valuable, since it gives you a wider margin for error in humidity control.

It also helps to understand a little of the history and growing habits of bay laurel, since this context explains why the plant behaves the way it does when propagated. Laurus nobilis has been cultivated in the Mediterranean basin for thousands of years, both as a culinary herb and as a symbol of honor in ancient Greek and Roman culture, where laurel wreaths were used to crown victors and poets. This long history of cultivation has produced a plant that is remarkably hardy once established, tolerant of poor soil, drought, and coastal conditions, but that same hardiness comes with a tradeoff: the plant conserves energy and grows slowly, which is reflected in how slowly its cuttings root compared to fast-growing garden plants.

In its natural growing regions, bay laurel can eventually reach heights of ten meters or more if left unpruned, although in cultivation it is far more commonly kept as a compact shrub or clipped topiary specimen, often grown in large pots on patios or near kitchen doors for easy access when cooking. Understanding this growth habit is useful when selecting your source plant for cuttings, since a bay laurel that has been regularly pruned tends to produce a higher number of vigorous, semi-hardwood side shoots, which are ideal candidates for propagation. An unpruned, leggy specimen, by contrast, may only offer a few suitable cutting sites, usually near the tips of the main branches.

Climate also plays a role beyond just the immediate rooting environment. Gardeners in cooler climates, such as northern Europe or the northern United States, often grow bay laurel in containers specifically so the plant can be moved indoors or into a greenhouse during winter, since prolonged exposure to hard frost can damage or kill the plant. If you are taking cuttings from a container-grown bay laurel that has spent time indoors over winter, it is a good idea to let the plant acclimate outdoors in bright, indirect light for a couple of weeks before taking cuttings, since stems that have hardened off slightly in natural light tend to root more reliably than stems taken directly from a low-light indoor environment.

Step-by-Step Guide to Propagating Bay Laurel from Cuttings

Now that you understand why the right product matters and what bay laurel needs, let’s go through the full propagation process step by step.

Step 1: Select the Right Branch

Choose a healthy, semi-hardwood stem from the current or previous year’s growth. It should be firm enough to resist bending easily but not so old that the bark has become thick and woody. A stem around 10 to 15 centimeters long is ideal, taken from a section of the plant that has not flowered.

When examining candidate branches, look specifically for stems with good leaf color, free of yellowing, spotting, or signs of pest activity such as scale insects, which are common on bay laurel and can weaken a cutting before it even has a chance to root. It is best to take your cutting early in the morning, when the plant is well hydrated from the cooler overnight temperatures, rather than in the heat of the afternoon when the stem may already be under mild water stress. If possible, take two or three cuttings for every plant you actually want to end up with, since even under ideal conditions with a high-quality rooting product, not every single cutting will successfully root, and having a few extras significantly improves your overall odds of ending up with at least one strong new plant.

Step 2: Prepare Your Tools

Use clean, sharp secateurs or a sharp knife. Disinfecting your tools with rubbing alcohol before cutting is important, since bay laurel cuttings are vulnerable to bacterial infection at the wound site during the early rooting phase.

Beyond simply wiping the blade once, it is good practice to disinfect your tools between each individual cutting if you are taking multiple cuttings from different plants, since this prevents cross-contamination of any pathogens that might be present on one plant but not another. A small container of rubbing alcohol or a diluted bleach solution kept nearby while you work makes this quick and easy. It is also worth having your pots, substrate, and rooting fertilizer prepared and ready before you take the cutting, since minimizing the time between cutting the stem and applying the rooting treatment reduces the chance of the wound drying out or becoming contaminated before it is protected.

Step 3: Make the Cut

Cut the stem at a 45 degree angle just below a leaf node, since this is where the highest concentration of growth-stimulating cells is located. Remove the lower leaves, leaving only two or three sets of leaves near the top of the cutting to reduce water loss through transpiration.

Some experienced propagators also take the additional step of lightly wounding the base of the cutting, which involves carefully scraping away a thin sliver of the outer bark, roughly two to three centimeters long, along one or two sides of the stem near the base. This exposes more of the cambium layer, the thin band of actively dividing cells just beneath the bark, which increases the surface area available for root initiation and can noticeably improve rooting speed in woody species like bay laurel. If you choose to wound the cutting this way, be sure to apply the rooting fertilizer generously over the wounded area as well as the cut tip, since this exposed tissue is also more vulnerable to fungal infection without protection.

Step 4: Apply the Rooting Fertilizer

Dip the cut end into the Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer, making sure the powder or gel coats the wound evenly. This step is what activates the rooting hormones and provides the antifungal barrier that protects the cutting during the vulnerable weeks ahead. Skipping this step, or using a weaker product, is the single most common reason bay laurel cuttings fail.

For best results, moisten the cut end very slightly with clean water before dipping it into the rooting fertilizer, since this helps the formula adhere evenly to the tissue rather than falling away in clumps. Tap off any excess product gently, as a very thick, caked-on layer can actually trap excess moisture against the stem and encourage rot rather than preventing it. The goal is an even, thin coating that fully covers the cut surface and any wounded areas, not a thick paste. It is also a good habit to pour a small amount of the rooting fertilizer into a separate dish before dipping each cutting, rather than dipping directly into the main container, since this prevents any plant material or moisture from contaminating your main supply.

Step 5: Plant the Cutting

Insert the treated end into a pot filled with a well-draining mix, such as equal parts perlite and peat, or a specialized cutting mix. Bury about a third of the cutting’s length, firming the substrate gently around the base to remove air pockets.

Before inserting the cutting, it can help to use a pencil, a chopstick, or a dibber to create a small hole in the substrate first, rather than pushing the treated cutting directly into the mix. Pushing the cutting straight in can scrape off some of the rooting fertilizer along the way, reducing its effectiveness right where you need it most. Creating a pilot hole first avoids this problem entirely and also reduces stress on the delicate cut tissue. Once the cutting is in place, water the substrate lightly to help it settle around the base of the stem, then allow any excess water to drain fully before covering the pot, since waterlogged substrate is one of the leading causes of stem rot in the early weeks.

Step 6: Create a Humid Environment

Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag or place it inside a propagator to maintain humidity around the leaves. Make sure the covering does not touch the leaves directly, using small stakes if necessary to hold it away from the foliage.

It is important to allow for some air exchange even while maintaining humidity, since a completely sealed environment with no ventilation can encourage the buildup of condensation and stagnant, humid air that favors fungal growth just as much as it favors rooting. Many gardeners find it helpful to open the plastic covering or the vents on a propagator lid for a few minutes every couple of days, allowing fresh air to circulate before resealing. If you notice condensation forming heavily on the inside of the plastic, or any sign of mold developing on the substrate surface, increase ventilation slightly and consider wiping down the inside of the covering with a clean cloth.

Step 7: Place in Indirect Light and Warmth

Position the pot in a warm spot with bright but indirect light. Direct sunlight can overheat the enclosed environment and damage the cutting, while too little light slows down the rooting process.

A north-facing or east-facing windowsill often provides the right balance of brightness without the intensity of direct midday sun, particularly during the warmer months when even a short period of direct light through glass can raise the internal temperature of a covered propagator to damaging levels. If natural light in your home is limited, a simple grow light positioned a reasonable distance above the cuttings can supplement the available light without adding excessive heat, and many gardeners find this gives more consistent results than relying on a variable windowsill throughout the day. Bottom heat, provided by a heated propagation mat placed underneath the pot, can also meaningfully speed up root formation in bay laurel, since warm substrate temperatures around the base of the cutting encourage faster callus formation even when the ambient air temperature in your home is on the cooler side.

Step 8: Maintain Consistent Moisture

Check the substrate every few days, watering lightly whenever it starts to feel dry at the surface. Avoid soaking the mix, since bay laurel cuttings are highly sensitive to root rot during this stage.

A useful way to judge moisture without disturbing the cutting is to lift the pot occasionally and get a feel for its weight, since a pot with adequately moist substrate will feel noticeably heavier than one that has dried out. Over time you will develop an intuitive sense for how the pot should feel at the right moisture level. Watering from below, by placing the pot in a shallow tray of water for a few minutes and allowing the substrate to absorb moisture upward through the drainage holes, is often gentler on the delicate cutting than watering from above, since it avoids disturbing the base of the stem or washing away the rooting fertilizer before it has had a chance to work.

Step 9: Be Patient

Bay laurel is slow to root, often taking six to twelve weeks before you see any real progress. Resist the urge to tug on the cutting to check for roots, since this can damage the delicate new growth. Instead, look for new leaf growth at the top as a sign that rooting has likely begun.

During this waiting period, it is normal for the cutting to appear to do nothing at all for several weeks, which can be discouraging for gardeners used to faster-rooting plants. Some existing leaves on the cutting may even yellow slightly and drop, which is not necessarily a sign of failure but can simply be the plant conserving energy while it focuses on root development below the surface. What you want to watch for as a positive sign is that the remaining leaves stay firm and green rather than turning brown, shriveled, or mushy, and that the stem itself remains firm to a gentle touch rather than becoming soft or slimy. Keeping a simple log with the date you took each cutting, along with brief notes on its condition every week or two, can help you track progress objectively rather than relying on memory, especially if you are propagating several cuttings at once.

Step 10: Transplant

Once you notice resistance when gently tugging the cutting, or you see roots emerging from the drainage holes, it is time to transplant into a slightly larger pot with regular potting soil. Continue to protect the young plant from harsh sun and extreme temperatures for the first few months.

When transplanting, choose a pot only slightly larger than the one the cutting was rooted in, since an oversized pot holds excess moisture around the small root system and can lead to rot even after the plant has successfully rooted. A well-draining, general-purpose potting mix with a small amount of added perlite or grit works well for young bay laurel plants. After transplanting, gradually reduce the humidity the plant is accustomed to over a period of one to two weeks rather than removing all protection at once, by opening the plastic covering for progressively longer periods each day. This process, often called hardening off, allows the young plant to adjust to normal indoor or outdoor humidity levels without the shock of a sudden change, which can otherwise cause leaf drop or wilting even in a plant with a healthy root system.

Caring for Your New Bay Laurel Plant After Rooting

Successfully rooting a bay laurel cutting is a significant achievement, but the young plant still needs attentive care during its first year to develop into a strong, independent specimen. Newly rooted cuttings have a limited root system and cannot yet tolerate the same conditions as a mature bay laurel, so a gradual, careful approach during this establishment period pays off considerably in the long run.

For the first few months after transplanting, keep the young plant out of direct, intense sunlight, particularly during the hottest part of the day, since its small root system cannot yet supply enough water to keep pace with high transpiration rates. A location with bright, filtered light is ideal. Watering should continue to be moderate, allowing the top layer of soil to dry out slightly between waterings rather than keeping the substrate constantly moist, since overwatering remains a risk even after successful rooting.

Fertilizing should be approached cautiously at this stage. A young bay laurel plant does not need heavy feeding in its first few months, and applying a strong, general-purpose fertilizer too early can actually damage the tender new root system. If you do wish to feed the plant, a diluted, balanced liquid fertilizer applied no more than once every four to six weeks during the active growing season is generally sufficient until the plant is more established, typically after its first full year.

As the plant grows and fills out its pot, you will eventually need to repot it into a larger container, which is best done in spring as new growth begins. Signs that a bay laurel is ready for repotting include roots visible at the drainage holes, water running through the pot very quickly without being absorbed, or noticeably slowed growth despite otherwise good care. When repotting, choose a container only one size larger than the current one and use a fresh, well-draining potting mix, since bay laurel prefers not to sit in an overly large volume of soil relative to its root mass.

Common Mistakes That Cause Bay Laurel Cuttings to Fail

Even with the best intentions, many gardeners make a handful of predictable mistakes when propagating bay laurel, and being aware of them in advance can save you weeks of wasted effort. Overwatering is by far the most common issue, since well-meaning gardeners often assume that more moisture equals better rooting conditions, when in fact bay laurel cuttings are far more likely to die from rot caused by excess moisture than from mild dehydration.

Another frequent mistake is taking cuttings that are too soft or too woody. Cuttings from brand-new, very tender growth tend to wilt and collapse quickly, since they lack the structural rigidity to survive the weeks of stress involved in rooting. On the other end of the spectrum, cuttings taken from old, thick, heavily lignified wood root far more slowly, if at all, since older wood has fewer of the actively dividing cells needed to initiate new root growth. The semi-hardwood stage, firm but still slightly flexible, remains the ideal target.

Using an incomplete or low-quality rooting product is another major factor, as discussed throughout this guide, and is often the invisible cause behind cuttings that seem to be cared for correctly in every other respect yet still fail to root or succumb to fungal rot partway through the process. Insufficient humidity is another common issue, particularly in homes with dry indoor air during winter heating season, which can cause the leaves of the cutting to lose water faster than the still-rootless stem can compensate for.

Finally, impatience causes more failed propagation attempts than almost any other factor. Gardeners who repeatedly disturb the cutting to check for roots, who give up and discard a cutting after only two or three weeks of apparent inactivity, or who transplant a cutting before it has developed a sufficiently established root system, often undo weeks of otherwise successful progress. Trusting the process, maintaining consistent care, and giving the cutting the full six to twelve week window it typically needs will produce far better results than a hurried or anxious approach.

Comparing Rooting Products: What Really Matters

To make an informed decision, it helps to see how the Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer compares to typical rooting products found on the market. The table below summarizes the key criteria that matter most when propagating a slow-rooting, woody plant like bay laurel.

Criteria	Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer	Typical Rooting Products
Satisfied or refunded guarantee	Yes, full refund if not satisfied	Rarely offered
Complete formula (hormones, antifungal, nutrients)	Yes, all-in-one formula	Usually hormones only
Effectiveness on woody cuttings	Optimized for semi-hardwood species like bay laurel	Often optimized for softwood only
Worldwide shipping	Fast, international carrier network	Often limited to local markets
Online payment and ordering	Simple and secure, directly on the website	Varies, not always available
Ease of use	Straightforward, no complex mixing	Sometimes requires precise dilution

As the table shows, the difference is not just marketing language, it is a matter of real, measurable advantages. When you are investing weeks of patience into propagating a slow-growing plant like bay laurel, you want a product that removes as much uncertainty as possible, and that is exactly what the satisfied or refunded guarantee from Ferber Painting provides.

It is also worth considering the long-term value of a rooting product rather than judging it purely on upfront price. A cheap rooting powder that fails to protect half of your cuttings from fungal rot effectively costs you more in wasted time, wasted plant material, and delayed results than a slightly higher-priced product that reliably delivers a much higher success rate. When you factor in the weeks of waiting involved in bay laurel propagation specifically, the real cost of a failed batch of cuttings is measured less in money and more in lost time, which is exactly the kind of loss that a complete, well-formulated product like the Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer is designed to prevent.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take for bay laurel cuttings to root?

Typically between six and twelve weeks, depending on temperature, humidity, and the quality of the rooting product used. Using a complete formula like the Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer can help shorten this window and improve success rates.

Can I propagate bay laurel in water instead of soil?

It is possible but generally less reliable for woody cuttings like bay laurel, since the stem is prone to rotting before roots form. Rooting in a well-draining substrate treated with a proper rooting fertilizer tends to give more consistent results.

What is the best time of year to take bay laurel cuttings?

Late spring through late summer, when the plant is actively growing and the stems have started to firm up slightly, offering the best balance of flexibility and structure.

Why did my previous bay laurel cuttings fail?

The most common causes are using a weak or incomplete rooting product, overwatering, insufficient humidity, or taking cuttings from the wrong part of the plant. Addressing the rooting product first is usually the most effective fix.

Is the Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer suitable for other plants besides bay laurel?

Yes, the formula is balanced to work well on a range of semi-hardwood and softwood cuttings, including rosemary, olive, and many other ornamental and culinary plants.

How many cuttings should I take at once for the best chance of success?

Since not every cutting will root even under ideal conditions, taking three to five cuttings for every plant you actually want gives you a comfortable margin. This also allows you to compare their progress against one another over the following weeks, which can help you learn what healthy development looks like.

Can I reuse the same substrate for multiple rounds of cuttings?

It is best to use fresh substrate for each new batch of cuttings rather than reusing old mix, since previously used substrate can harbor fungal spores or bacteria from earlier cuttings, even ones that appeared healthy at the time.

Conclusion

Propagating bay laurel from cuttings is a slow but deeply satisfying process, and as we have seen, the outcome depends heavily on the quality of the rooting product you choose. A complete formula that combines hormonal stimulation, antifungal protection, and nutritional support gives your cuttings the best possible chance of developing into strong, independent plants, and this is precisely what sets the Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer apart from every other option on the market. From selecting the right semi-hardwood stem and preparing your tools properly, through maintaining the delicate balance of humidity and moisture over the following weeks, to finally hardening off and transplanting your new plant, every step matters, but none of them can fully compensate for a weak or incomplete rooting treatment at the very start of the process. Combined with fast worldwide shipping, simple online payment, and the only satisfied or refunded guarantee in the industry, there is very little reason to take a chance on a lesser product. Give your bay laurel cuttings the best possible start by ordering the Ferber Painting Rooting Fertilizer today.